Shoe and method of manufacture



Y 1... L. COMEAU suoE'AN-n METHOD OF muumc'runn Filed Avril 23,1 26

i ameaz Patented July 5, 1927.

LARRY L. COMEAU, 0F BRADFORD, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE.

Application filed April 23, 1926. Serial No. 104,133.

The invention relates primarily to improvements in ladies shoes of a type which Will possess the flexibility, comfort and general appearance of turned shoes, but instead of necessitating the use ,of expensive and complicated machines commonly em ployed for manufacturing turned shoes, may have the outer sole and certain other parts. stitched on the ordinaryldackay or some similar machine. A shoe of this general type is disclosed in my U. S. Patent No. 1,537,409 of May 12th, 1925, but it is the object of the present invention to improve upon the construction and method disclosed in that patent, in such a manner as to provide a shoe which will have greater rigidity at its shank and heel portions, yet will be flexible to a high degree at its front portion.

With the foregoing in view, the invention resides in the novel subject matter hereinafter described and claimed. the descriptive matter being supplemented by the accompanying drawing.

Figures 1, 2 and 3 are perspective views showing different steps in the manufacture of the improved shoe.

Figure 4 is a detail transverse section as indicated by line 44 of Fig. 3.

In the manufacture of the shoe, I make use of an ordinary wooden last L. Upon the heel and shank portions of this last, I secure a one-piece heel-and-shank-piece 5 whose front end 6 extends substantially to the ball of the last and is skived to a feather edge. In securing this heel-and shank-piece to the last, any desired number of tacks or the like 7 may be used. Prior to securing this piece 5 to the last, a shank reinforcement 8 is preferably secured to it, said reinforcement being formed preferably of a single strip of metal, while said piece 5 is in most instances out from a good grade of leather.

Upon the front portion of the'last L, T temporarily secure a half-inner-sole 9, for instance, b tacks 10, and this half-inner-sole may be flirmed of any desired material wh1ch will be sufficiently flexible to give the'desired results. It is preferably much more flexible than the heel-and-shank-piece 5. It will be seen from Fig. 1, that the rear end of the half-inner-sole 9 is disposed in overlapping relation with the front end of the heel-and-shank-piece 5, said ends being preferably so related that in the comremoved and a complete outer sole 18 is ap plied, said sole being cemented or otherwise secured in place so as to prevent accidental displacement. I

The operations above described having been completed, the entire assemblage 591113, is removed from the last L, and a single row of stitching 14, preferably formed by a Mackay or similar machine, is passed through the outer sole 13, through the inturned edge 12 of the upper 11, and

through the heel-and-shank-piece 5, and this stitching may pass either through or around the edge of the half-inner-sole 9. This stitching preferably starts at a point near the breast of the heel, extends forwardly to the toe of the shoe and then continues rearwardly to a point opposite the starting point. The outer sole is of course channeled as at 15, to receive this stitching, and preferably the hee1 portion of said sole is split as indicated at 16, so that a portion of it may be turned downwardly as indicated by the dotted lines 17, for finishing the breast of the usual wooden or other preferred type of heel, the latter being secured in place, in any desired manner.

It will of course be understood that if wished, a suitable filler (not shown) may occupy the space between the outer sole and the members 5 and 9, which space is bounded by the inturned edge 12 of the upper 11. It will also be understood that a sock lining (not shown) may be cemented over the entire inner side of the sole if desired.

By the improved method, a shoe is produced whose heel and shank portions are relatively stiff, due to the combined thickness of the outer sole 13 and the heel-and-shank piece 5, whereas the front portion of the sole will be very flexible and'hence will be unusually comfortable and desirable.

I have found that excellent results are obtainable from the method. s p a d he structural details herein disclosed and they are therefore preferably followed. However, within the scope of the invention as claimed, variations may be made.

I claim I 1. In a process of shoe manufacture, the\ steps of applying a heeland-shankpiece to the heel and shank portion out last, applying a half-inner-sole to the forepart of the last, disposing the rear end of said halfinner-sole in overlapping relation with the front end of said heel-and-shank-piece, applying an upper having an inturned edge to the last and engaging said edge with said heel-and-shank-piece and said half-innersole, applying an outer sole and securing it against accidental displacement, removing the assembled parts from the last, and stitching at one operation through the outer sole, through the inturned edge of the upper,

through the heel-and-shank-piece and through the half-inner-sole.

2. shoe comprising an outer sole, an

upper having an inturned edge resting on said sole, a half-inner-sole covering the front portion of the outer sole and resting on said inturned edge of the upper, a heel-andshank-piece covering the heel and shank portion of said outer sole with its front end in lapping relation with the rear end of said lialfinner-sole, said heel-and-shank-piece resting on said inturned edge of the upper,

and stitching passing through said outer sole, said inturned edge of the upper, and said heel-and-shank-piece.

3. In a process of shoe manufacture, the steps of applying a heel-and shank-piece to the heel and shank portion of a last, applying a half-inner-sole to the forepart of the last, disposing the rear end-of said halfinner-sole in overlapping relation with the front end of said heel-and-shank-piece, applying an upper having an inturned edge to the last and engaging said edge with said heel-and-shank-piece and said half-innersole, applyin an outer sole and securing it against acci ental displacement, removing the assembled parts from the last, and stitching at one operation through the outer sole, through the inturned edge of the upper, and through the heel and shank piece.

4. A shoe comprising an outer sole, an upper having an inturned edge restino on said sole, a half-inner-sole covering the front portion of the outer sole and resting on said inturned edge of the upper with its edges approximately flush with those of the outer sole, a'heel-and-shank-piece covering the heel and shank portion of said outer sole with its front end in lapping relation with the rear end of said half-inner-sole, said heel-andshank piece resting on said inturned edge of the upper, and stitching, passing through said outer sole, said inturned edge of the upper, and said heel-and-shank-piece.

5. A shoe comprising an outer sole, an upper having an inturned edge resting on said sole, a half-inner-sole covering the front portion of the outer sole and resting on said inturned edge of the upper, a heel and shank piece extending rearwardly from said halfinner-sole and covering the heel and shank portion of said outer sole, said heel-andshank-piece resting on said inturned edge of the upper, and stitching passingthrough said outer sole, said inturned edge of the upper and said heel-and-shank-piece.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto affixed my si nature.

RRY L. COMEAU. La 

